The United States Mountain Guides Association
  A collection of common and interesting questions.
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Below is a list of some of the more common or interesting questions we have received and our answers. Keep in mind that there is often more than one suitable way to solve a climbing problem. So, there may be other ways to accomplish the tasks described below that are also appropriate. The USMGA does not establish and maintain guiding or climbing standards or techniques. The answers given below are recommendations from USMGA endorsed guides with many years of climbing and guiding experience.

Topics are arranged with the most recently answered question at the top of the list.

The latest question was received November 21, 2003

 

Topic
Tying In With a Carabiner
Use of Belay Loop
Belaying 2 seconds on half ropes
Impact forces, half ropes
Half ropes, leading and belaying
Slinging natural anchors
Tandem rappel
Top rope site management
Belay devices
Top rope self belay, static rope
Impact forces
Avalanche airbags
Digital avalanche beacons
Flat overhand knot
Prussik, cordelette length
Rappel vs. lower off
Single rope vs. half rope vs. twin rope
Gri Gri
Lowering with a Reverso
Anchoring
Rappels with beginners
Anchor analysis
Figure 8 for belay?
Static leader belays
Knots for rappelling
 
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