| The two ways of managing the rope when | | | | a location that re-aligns the belay with the |
| belaying are the body belay and the mechanical | | | | expected direction of pull. |
| belay. The body belay is used when the belayer | | | | The belayer anchors themselves to a reliable |
| must stop a fall without any other means. The | | | | anchor point using part of the climbing rope, or |
| rope is wrapped around the body and uses the | | | | their sling (utility) rope. When the climbing rope is |
| belayers body to cinch down on the rope to | | | | used and the belayer is within an arms length of |
| arrest a fall. All body belays are suited for normal | | | | an anchor, a double figure eight can be used to |
| rope handling. However they are rarely suited for | | | | secure the climbing rope to the anchor. This short |
| the interception of severe falls. The energy | | | | section of rope between anchor and belayer is |
| produced by the fall is, in part, absorbed by the | | | | called a self-belay. |
| belayers body. Which could cause injury to the | | | | If the anchor is furthur than arms length from the |
| belayer. | | | | belay position, either a sling rope is used for the |
| Mechanical belay methods (sometimes termed | | | | self-belay, or a bight large enough to reach the |
| dynamic-mechanical belays) have been developed | | | | anchor is taken and tied off to form a fixed loop. |
| in order to avoid, or decrease, the inherent | | | | The ability to reach the anchor knot from the |
| dangers of body belays. A good mechanical belay | | | | belay without moving is important. If the belayer |
| should be easy and simple to handle. It should | | | | is holding the full weight of an injured climber, they |
| allow for quick paying out and taking in of the | | | | must be able to tie the belay rope without |
| rope. It should stop and hold a wet rope as easily | | | | moving. |
| and efficiently as a dry one. It should be suited | | | | The self-belay must always be tight, and the |
| for double ropes. It should be independednt of the | | | | anchor, belayer, and expected direction of pull |
| direction of the impact force. It should have a | | | | must be as close to a straight line as possible. The |
| breaking strain of between 250 to 600kg. And it | | | | belayer ensures that the rope does not run over |
| should function without much additional equipment, | | | | any sharp projections or edges. If it does it should |
| and be practical. | | | | be re-routed, and if that is not possible padding |
| When establishing a belay position, the belayer | | | | should be used, such as a rucksack or parka. |
| should determine the anticipated direction of pull in | | | | The belayer lays out the rope so that it runs |
| case of a fall. As the climber moves up the | | | | freely through the hands without becoming |
| direction may change. The belayer should "aim" | | | | tangled. There is not the option, once belaying |
| the belay in the direction that will best enable a fall | | | | starts, to release the brake hand to untangle the |
| to be held. Corrective measures should be taken | | | | rope. Stacking, backfeeding, or piling the rope in |
| if the ideal belay position is different from the | | | | one spot is better than coiling, as fewer kinks |
| expected direction of pull. This is achieved by | | | | develop. |
| placing more protection (piton, chock, or runner) in | | | | |