| Carabiners are the foot soldiers of the rock world. | | | | curve or natural 'v' point in the shape. If you |
| The essential link in the lines of climbing | | | | 'cross load' - that is load the rope or weight along |
| communication. They are oval like, D-shaped or | | | | the longest side of the device - you are placing |
| pear shaped metal rings. They have a spring | | | | force at the weakest part of the structure. This |
| loaded mechanism, or arm, which can be opened | | | | can potentially be very dangerous and should be |
| allowing ropes and other devices to be fed | | | | avoided. Here are three types of common |
| through or onto the metal ring. The arm is then | | | | carabiner. |
| closed, sealing the gap shut and securing the | | | | Screwgates |
| attached devices so they cannot slip off. This | | | | These carabiners have a cover that screws into |
| closed loop will remain closed unless you pull the | | | | position which ensures the arm wont open |
| 'arm' back which then allows you to remove | | | | accidentally whilst climbing. |
| devices from inside the loop. | | | | Clipgates |
| All climbing devices should be rated and marked | | | | Handy for clipping onto slings and protection |
| with the stamp from 'UIAA' - 'International Union | | | | devices. As they dont have a locking mechanism |
| of Alpine Associations' - or the 'CE' - | | | | they are a less secure option. Also know as snap |
| 'conformité européenne' it conforms to | | | | gates. |
| European standards of safety. The UIAA | | | | Auto-locking |
| equipment has been tested in the field under real | | | | Self-lockers negate the possibility of you |
| conditions. If they don't have either of these | | | | forgetting to lock the arm in place. Care must be |
| marks - don't buy or use them. | | | | taken to keep the device free of grit and dirt |
| Carabiners are tested to extremes of pressure | | | | which can impair the action. |
| allowing heavy loads to be placed upon them. | | | | Carabiners will be weakened if you drop them |
| 'Biners' or 'crabs' as they are known, are rated in | | | | onto a hard surface from a height. Damage can |
| Kilo Newtons from about 10kN to 40kN. 1 newton | | | | always be done to the molecular structure of a |
| equals one tenth a kg of force. So most | | | | device so it doesn't matter if you can't see |
| caribiners will hold between 1000-4000kg of force. | | | | anything - it could still be there. If in doubt don't |
| Phew. | | | | use it. These decisions become easier with |
| It is very important to load the biners at the | | | | experience. |
| designated end of the oval or 'D'. This will be the | | | | |