| A rope is the most important part of your | | | | stand up to the most rigorous of climb demands |
| climbing gear - your safety depends on it! If you | | | | when used as a double rope. The double rope |
| are new to climbing, whether Ice Climbing, Trad | | | | system is safer and more durable than the single |
| Climbing or Sport Climbing, choosing the correct | | | | rope system. They range in diameter from |
| climbing rope can be difficult. There are so many | | | | approx 8.1mm to 9mm. |
| different ropes available from various brands. | | | | Most ropes come in standard 50 meter lengths |
| Ropes are either stretchy - Dynamic or | | | | with 60 and 70 meters also available for those |
| non-stretchy - Static. Dynamic ropes are used for | | | | longer routes. Most climbers find 50m ropes the |
| climbing as in the case of a fall they can stretch | | | | right choice, offering flexibility and durability. |
| to take the impact. Dynamic ropes are split into | | | | All Beal and Mammut ropes are tested to |
| Single, Twin and Half (Double) ropes. Climbing | | | | internationally accepted standards. The UIAA drop |
| ropes can come as Standard or Superdry. The | | | | test measures how many standard falls the rope |
| Superdry offers an extra treatment which stops | | | | will withstand. A fall is measured using a weight of |
| the rope taking in water. Both Beal and Mammut | | | | 80kg (with single and twin ropes) or 55kg (with |
| offer these dry treatments. Beal's Golden Dry and | | | | half ropes) falls on a single cord (single and half |
| Mammut's Superdry finishes protect the rope | | | | ropes) or doubled cord (twin ropes). Single and |
| from water absorption which eliminates weight | | | | half ropes must withstand at least 5 falls, a |
| increase and slows the wearing of the rope | | | | doubled twin rope at least 12. When falling, the |
| considerably. | | | | impact of a climber needs to be absorbed by the |
| The Single rope, such as Beal's Edlinger or | | | | rope and belaying system. The UIAA impact |
| Mammut's Passion, is the rope for Sport Climbing. | | | | force test is the measurement of the hardness |
| It is used as the name suggests, as a single | | | | of the fall. The lower this force the better, |
| strand. It has been tested as safe for use on its | | | | meaning the impact on the climber is reduced. In |
| own. Single ropes are ideal for easy routes | | | | standard tests the impact force for single and |
| without change over belays to difficult routes | | | | twin ropes may not exceed 1200 daN and for |
| which are fairly straight line. Single ropes are the | | | | half ropes 800 daN. (daN = Technical unit of force |
| most common and widely used rope. They range | | | | for measuring, approximately a 1kg mass). If the |
| in diameter from approx 9.1mm to 11mm. | | | | sheath and core slip during use, the rope can |
| Twin ropes must be used in pairs. They offer | | | | bulge and get lumps. The UIAA test measures |
| higher safety and are clipped together into each | | | | the amount of sheath slippage. Working elongation |
| piece of protection. Twin ropes are not used very | | | | is tested by using an 80kg weight hanging on the |
| often; they are ideally suited for alpine climbing as | | | | rope. The UIAA standard allows no more than |
| they offer the highest safety margin. Twin ropes | | | | 10% stretch of a single rope and 12% for half |
| range in diameter from approx 7.5mm to 8.5mm. | | | | ropes. |
| Half (Double) ropes are often used due to their | | | | Once you have chosen and purchased your |
| flexibility, suited to traditional Rock Climbing. Half | | | | climbing rope it is essential to maintain it, for your |
| ropes give you the choice between twin rope | | | | safety and to extend the life of your rope. Your |
| technique, where both ropes run parallel through | | | | climbing rope should be checked before each use, |
| the protection and half rope technique where | | | | check for damage and deformities. You should |
| each rope runs separately through different | | | | store your rope ideally in a rope bag and it should |
| protection points. A belay method which enables | | | | be cleaned occasionally with water and a brush. It |
| the independent control of each rope must be | | | | should be stored in the shade, away from |
| used. Mammut's Genesis when used as a double | | | | moisture and heat sources. |
| rope is extremely robust and Beal's Cobra will | | | | |