| -link"> | | | | an open loop with a double fisherman's knot |
| Choosing the correct climbing equipment is often | | | | - Helmet |
| confusing. This article offers advice on building a | | | | Plus if possible a second set of nuts — of a |
| rack of climbing equipment for a variety of | | | | different brand from our first set. |
| climbing styles. 1. Climbing Equipment and Rack for | | | | Then after that look at getting a small number of |
| Seconding on a Climbing Wall | | | | cams The key sizes when forming a rack are |
| - Climbing Harness — Go to a good climbing | | | | Wild Country/DMM 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 or BD Camalot |
| shop and try a few on and hang in them. The | | | | 0.5, 1 and 2. |
| harness should be padded on the waist and legs | | | | One of the biggest outlays at this stage will be |
| and have a minimum of 5 gear loops if you intend | | | | deciding on what ropes to get i.e. a single rope or |
| climbing outside. The DMM Renegade is a good | | | | a half rope. The answer depends on what you |
| reference point. | | | | want to do. If you plan to stay on the outcrops |
| - Rock shoes — Again you need to go to | | | | or go sport climbing I would go for a 60m x |
| a shop and ask for advice/try loads on. Rock | | | | 9.8mm -10.0mm single rope — 60m |
| shoes are a culture shock — your toes | | | | because all UK climbers go abroad in the winter |
| should touch the end of the shoe, they should be | | | | and 60m is mandatory in Europe plus a 60m rope |
| comfortably tight and if you twist the shoe your | | | | lets you do 30m double rope pitches in the UK; |
| foot should twist as well without any slippage. | | | | also by getting a thinnish’ single rope it |
| Then once you have your perfect fit bear in mind | | | | can be used in a full length double rope system at |
| that all shoes stretch ..buying shoes for the first | | | | a squeeze. |
| time is difficult so take your time..The Red Chili | | | | If trad climbing is going to be your thing then go |
| Saucilito, Scarpa Vantage and Sportiva Cliff are | | | | for an 8.5mm x 50m half rope and find a partner |
| good starting points | | | | with a similar rope. You can go for a 60m rope |
| - Belay Device — The DMM bug is good | | | | and the extra length is great for alpine/ice routes, |
| for all-round use, whilst the Petzl Verso and | | | | but for most UK cragging you are just lugging |
| Reverso3 are class leaders. | | | | around an extra 10m of useless rope most of the |
| - Locking Carabiner for Belay Device — | | | | time. |
| DMM Sentinel, Belay Master or Ultra O screwgate | | | | Superdry treatments are not just for keeping the |
| are all good | | | | rope dry, indeed for most climbers the key |
| - Chalk bag and Chalk — Down to you | | | | advantage of dry treatments is that that increase |
|
.just make sure you can get your whole hand | | | | durability and decrease drag. 5. Climbing Equipment |
| in
essential for sea cliff climbing. Carry it on | | | | and Rack for Advanced Leaders on Mountain |
| 1.5mm of 5mm cord that can be used as an | | | | Routes |
| emergency prusic or abseil tat. 2. Climbing | | | | At this point everything gets very personal and |
| Equipment and Rack for Leading on a Climbing | | | | this is what I carry on most long routes. |
| Wall | | | | - Wires: 3 sets of wires 1-6, double sets 7-10 and |
| As above plus: | | | | one 11. Carried on 4 Shadow keylock screwgates. |
| - Quickdraws for the wall — Think ahead | | | | The wires are a balanced mix of DMM Wallnuts, |
| and buy draws that will serve you when you | | | | WC Rocks and DMM Alloy Offsets. |
| move outside as well. | | | | - Micro Wires: A bit OTT, but I carry about 20 |
| - Rope — Walls trash ropes so a lot of | | | | micro wires on most big routes, based around the |
| people go for a specific short (cheaper) rope for | | | | RP2/DMM Imp 2 and 3 and DMM Micro Wallnut 0.5 |
| wall use. Mammut Promo in 30m or 40m lengths | | | | and 0.75. Carried on 2 Shadow keylocks. |
| is a good choice plus it can be used for both | | | | - Aliens: I always carry the Yellow and Green and |
| leading and top-roping short routes outside 3. | | | | often the Blue Aliens — awesome units, |
| Climbing Equipment and Rack for Seconding | | | | happily bought before their quality control went |
| Routes Outside | | | | AWOL. |
| As 1. above plus: | | | | - DMM 4CU’s: 1.0 to 3.0 including half sizes. |
| - Slings: 1 x 120cm and 1 x 60cm sling | | | | I really like their lightweight and doubled sling which |
| - Screwgates: One small screwgate and one | | | | saves lots of quickdraws. |
| larger mini HMS screwgate. | | | | - DMM Torque Nuts — 1-3. The best hexes |
| - Nut key: A nut key plus a carabiner and short | | | | out there. |
| length of cord to carry it. | | | | - Quickdraws: I carry up to 16 DMM Phantom |
| - Rescue: Two prusic loops generally these are | | | | quickdraws on skinny dyneema — 2 x |
| formed from 1.5m lengths of 5mm cord tied into | | | | 12cm, 8 x 18cm, 4 x 25cm and 2 x extendable |
| an open loop with a double fisherman's knot | | | | quickdraws based on 8mm x 60cm slings |
| - Helmet — a matter of choice, but most | | | | - Slings:2 x 120cm and 2 x 60cm dyneema slings |
| people do these days. 4. Climbing Equipment and | | | | - Screwgates: 1 x DMM Sentinel and 3 x DMM |
| Rack for Starting to Lead Outside | | | | Phantom Screwgates |
| As 1. above plus: | | | | - Belay device: Petzl Verso or Reverso3. |
| - Quickdraws: A minimum of 6 quickdraws if you | | | | - Ropes: 2 x 8.5mm x 50m Mammut Genesis |
| are climbing on short outcrop routes, but you will | | | | Superdry ropes. |
| need 10 or more quickdraws for mountain routes. | | | | - Nut key: DMM Nutbuster |
| Quickdraws around 18cm in length are perfect | | | | - Prussics: 2 x short prussics on one Phantom SG |
| for trad with a couple of shorter and longer | | | | I won’t necessarily carry all this — |
| draws. | | | | I’ll always check out the route first to see |
| - A set of nuts — either DMM Wallnuts or | | | | if there is any kit I can leave behind or whether |
| WC Rocks 1 — 11 | | | | I’ll need to double up on some items or |
| - A set of large nuts — DMM Torque Nuts | | | | whether I can leave anything behind. There is no |
| 1-4 or WC Rockcentrics 5-8 | | | | point in taking a large number of friends up a |
| - Slings: 2 x 120cm and 2 x 60cm slings — | | | | climb on a blank wall. |
| dyneema 11 or 12mm. Skinny dyneema slings | | | | This way you can reduce the weight and bulk |
| (8-10mm) are great, but quite unforgiving of user | | | | hanging from your waist — this will reduce |
| error. | | | | the speed at which you get pumped, increase the |
| - Screwgates: 3 x small screwgates and one | | | | difficulty at which you can climb and make it |
| larger mini HMS screwgate. DMM Phantoms and | | | | easier for you to find the gear on your harness. |
| DMM Sentinel. | | | | Choosing the right rack for a route is a skill that |
| - Individual Carabiners: 8 x individual carabiners for | | | | improves over time. A good starting point, is to |
| racking wires, connecting slings etc. I prefer | | | | estimate the quantity of quickdraws you will need |
| keylock solid gates for racking wires and | | | | by taking the length of the route (i.e. 25m) and |
| lightweight wire gates for connecting running | | | | divide it by how often you expect to place |
| belays
. but this is very personal and some | | | | protection i.e. every 2m. This will help you |
| people hate keylocks for racking
. | | | | estimate how many quickdraws that you are |
| - Nut key: A nut key plus a carabiner and short | | | | likely to need. |
| length of cord to carry it. | | | | It is worth remembering that not every |
| - Rescue: Two prusic loops generally these are | | | | placement will need extending i.e. DMM |
| formed from 1.5m lengths of 5mm cord tied into | | | | 4CU’s, slings and hexes. |