The United States Mountain Guides Association
  What is a climbing guide? We'll give you some definitions.
Home
About the USMGA
Choosing a Guide
Endorsed
Guides
Resources &
Information
Links
Professional
Section
  {Guide Definitions
Choosing a Guide
Guide Definitions
More on Choos-
ing a Guide
Course/Exam
Considerations
Guide Training
Explained
Aspirant Guides
 
 
 
Anyone can call themselves a guide
Due to the increased interest in climbing, more and more climbers are being hired to work as guides. It is important to know that neither the government, insurance companies, nor accreditation programs require qualifications for climbing guides in the US As a result, anyone can call themselves a guide. However, here is how the USMGA defines a guide.

Guide
A climber working in the mountain guiding profession who has passed at least one field examination given by certified guides.

Aspirant Guide
A climber who has begun the guide training process by completing at least one formal guide course taught by certified guides. Aspirant guides are encouraged to seek the supervision of a USMGA endorsed guide in the discipline for which they have been trained.

Formal Training
A climber has begun formal training when he or she has completed a guide course offered by an association recognized by the IFMGA and taught by certified guides. In this country this training is offered by the American Mountain Guides Association.

The USMGA endorsement program recognizes and endorses guides at different levels in three disciplines;rock, alpine, and ski .


  Mountain Guide- the highest level of endorsement and the only certification recognized internationally. An endorsed mountain guide has passed the highest level exams in all the guiding disciplines.

  Rock Instructor- the first level of endorsement in the rock discipline. Rock instructors have been examined on terrain up to and including grade 3 in length.

  Rock Guide- the higher level of certification and endorsement in the rock discipline. Rock guides have been examined on longer routes which involve difficult and technical approaches and descents.

  Alpine Guide- these guides have been examined in all the skill areas required to work in the alpine environment. If your climbing involves glaciers, ice, or complex mountainous terrain, this is the type of guide you should be looking for.

  Ski Guide- the first level of endorsement in a ski discipline. Endorsed ski guides have been examined on all types of ski terrain with the exception of glaciers.

  Ski Mountaineering Guide- the higher level of certification endorsement in the ski discipline. A ski mountaineering guide is endorsed for ski guiding on all ski terrain including glaciers.

Top
USMGA-PO Box 267-Intervale, NH 03845  Email