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Anyone
can call themselves a guide
Due to the increased interest in climbing, more and more climbers are being
hired to work as guides. It is important to know that neither the government,
insurance companies, nor accreditation programs require qualifications for
climbing guides in the US As a result, anyone can call themselves a guide.
However, here is how the USMGA defines a guide.
Guide
A climber working in the mountain guiding profession who has passed at
least one field examination given by certified guides.
Aspirant
Guide
A climber who has begun the guide training process by completing at least
one formal guide course taught by certified guides. Aspirant guides are
encouraged to seek the supervision of a USMGA endorsed guide in the discipline
for which they have been trained.
Formal
Training
A climber
has begun
formal training when he or she has completed a guide course offered by
an association recognized by the IFMGA and taught by certified guides.
In this country this training is offered by the American Mountain Guides
Association.
The
USMGA endorsement program recognizes and endorses guides at different
levels in three disciplines;rock, alpine, and ski .
Mountain
Guide- the highest level of endorsement and the only certification
recognized internationally. An endorsed mountain guide has passed the
highest level exams in all the guiding disciplines.
Rock
Instructor- the first level of endorsement in the rock discipline.
Rock instructors have been examined on terrain up to and including grade
3 in length.
Rock
Guide- the higher level of certification and endorsement in the rock
discipline. Rock guides have been examined on longer routes which involve
difficult and technical approaches and descents.
Alpine
Guide- these guides have been examined in all the skill areas required
to work in the alpine environment. If your climbing involves glaciers,
ice, or complex mountainous terrain, this is the type of guide you should
be looking for.
Ski
Guide- the first level of endorsement in a ski discipline. Endorsed
ski guides have been examined on all types of ski terrain with the exception
of glaciers.
Ski
Mountaineering Guide- the higher level of certification endorsement
in the ski discipline. A ski mountaineering guide is endorsed for ski
guiding on all ski terrain including glaciers.
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