United States Mountain Guides Association- Climbing area access

The United States Mountain Guides Association

Many guides are not free to guide their clients on most
of our federal lands. We believe that climbers should
not be denied access to an area just because they are
with a guide.

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Access

The way it is
Currently, in most parts of the country it is very difficult for guides to work where they choose. Most of the desirable guiding terrain is off-limits to all but a few guides and their employees who are fortunate enough to be issued a permit or concession by the government. It should be noted that possession of a permit or concession has nothing to do with whether or not a guide or guide service is capable of meeting a standard or is guiding at a quality level. Most land managers and agencies do not require any training or testing of guides. Given the current situation, it's possible that a climber who has climbed for years with a highly trained USMGA endorsed guide or IFMGA certified mountain guide could be forced to climb with a guide with much less training or experience, depending upon where they choose to climb. This isn't right.

The way it should be
Climbers should have the right to climb with whoever they want, wherever they want. The current system that limits the public's choice of guides and doesn't oversee the quality of the guiding that does take place needs to be changed. The USMGA is in favor of a system where access could be gained through endorsement. We believe the public's interests are best served by a system where climbers know that the guide they employ is capable of meeting a minimum standard and their choices are not limited. As long as an area is not limited by any kind of quota system in regards to who is allowed to climb there, then any climber should be allowed to employ any professional guide there. The key here is that guides granted such access must have taken and passed a field exam to prove they can meet minimum acceptable standards. This is the best way to ensure the climbing public's safety and to limit the government's and other land manager's liability.

What we are doing
We're developing strategies to open up access for USMGA endorsed guides. We are beginning a program which will educate public land managers and private landowners about the benefits of allowing examined guides access to their lands. We are not attempting to challenge any current concession or permit holders, we have no problem with them being allowed access. We just want the same freedom for guides who have proven their expertise and dedication to the profession by taking an exam.

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USMGA-PO Box 267-Intervale, NH 03845 Email